A practical contractor for real building work
Many London projects need several trades coordinated properly: repairs before finishes, roofing before plasterboard, tiling after preparation and decoration only after defects are resolved. We manage that sequence.
Local presence, London coverage
From Kingston upon Thames and South West London to wider Greater London, Lian Construction supports homeowners, landlords and commercial clients who need dependable building work with clear communication.
What affects the cost of construction work in London
Pricing on any building project comes down to a handful of practical factors, and London adds its own layer on top of the basics. Access is usually the biggest one: a mid-terrace Victorian house with no side return means materials go in through the front door and waste comes out the same way, which slows everything down compared with a detached property with driveway access. Scaffolding and skip permits add cost on narrow residential streets, where a council permit is often needed just to stand a skip or a scaffold tower on the public highway, and resident parking restrictions can limit when deliveries and skip swaps happen. The condition of what's already there matters too: solid brick walls with old lime plaster often need more preparation and different materials than a stud wall in a 1990s build, and a roof that's had years of patch repairs can hide problems, rotten battens, perished felt, corroded flashings, that only show once the tiles come off. Party wall matters, listed building or conservation area status, and whether services need upgrading, old rewireable fuse boards, lead water pipes, insufficient loft insulation, all feed into the final figure. Material choice affects cost as much as labour: matching reclaimed London stock brick, sourcing a specific clay tile profile, or specifying a breathable lime render instead of standard cement render all carry different price points, and none of that is visible from the street until a survey opens things up. Waste disposal is its own line item too, since a skip on a residential road is priced differently from a grab lorry on a site with vehicular access, and mixed construction waste containing plasterboard or asbestos-suspect material has to be segregated and disposed of through a licensed carrier rather than a standard skip. Structural work, like removing a chimney breast or forming an opening for a knock-through, adds engineering and steelwork costs on top of the building work itself, and needs a structural calculation before anyone touches a supporting wall, along with making good the ceiling and floor either side once the steel is in and padstones are built up. Basement and lower-ground floor rooms often carry an extra cost too, since a below-ground damp issue usually needs a different specification, a tanking system or a French drain, rather than a straightforward decorating fix. On listed buildings, sourcing matching materials, like a specific handmade brick, a natural slate to match the existing roof, or a traditional lime mortar mix, can itself take longer and add more to the final cost than the labour needed to install them once they arrive on site. We survey before we quote, and the written quote sets out labour, materials and any provisional sums for items we genuinely can't confirm until walls, floors or roofs are opened up.
Materials and methods suited to London's housing stock
London's building stock isn't uniform, and using the wrong method on the wrong wall causes more problems than it solves. On Victorian and Edwardian solid wall terraces, we generally avoid sealing walls with gypsum plaster or cement-based renders, since solid brick needs to let moisture move through it rather than trap it; lime-based plasters and breathable finishes are usually the better fix where damp or historic movement is involved, particularly on ground floor rooms without a damp proof course or where a previous owner has already made things worse with a sealed modern render. On later stud partitions and ex-council concrete-frame flats, plasterboard on dot-and-dab adhesive or fixed to timber battens is standard, along with skim coats or taped-and-jointed finishes depending on what's being covered and whether the wall needs to stay accessible for services or sound insulation between flats, which matters more in a converted terrace or purpose-built block with shared floors and party floors between different owners. Where an existing lath and plaster ceiling is sound, we'll often repair and skim it rather than strip it out unnecessarily, since removing a good ceiling to replace it with plasterboard adds cost and mess without improving anything. For roofing, we work with concrete and clay tiles, natural slate on older or heritage properties, and felt, GRP or single-ply membranes on flat roofs and extensions, along with breather membranes and treated battens under the tile line to manage ventilation and prevent trapped moisture in the roof void, which is a common cause of premature timber decay in older lofts that were never designed with modern insulation levels in mind. Matching materials to what's already on the building is usually more sensible than a full replacement where a like-for-like repair will do the job and keep the roofline consistent with neighbouring properties, particularly on a terrace where mismatched tiles are obvious from the street and can affect a future sale or a mortgage valuation. Tiling follows proper preparation: uneven or bouncy floors get boarded, levelled or screeded before tiles go down, tanking membrane or slurry is used in wet areas like shower enclosures and behind baths, and adhesive, grout and movement joints are chosen for the substrate and any underfloor heating rather than whatever happens to be cheapest on the day. None of this is exotic. It's standard trade practice, applied correctly, in the right order, on the right substrate, which is where most of the actual value in a job lies rather than in anything unusual or a particular brand name printed on the bag.
How long building work typically takes
Programme length depends heavily on scope, but there are some rough patterns worth knowing before you plan around a project. A single roof repair, or reroofing a small terraced property, is often a matter of days once scaffolding is up, weather allowing, though full reroofs on larger, hipped or more complex roofs can run into a couple of weeks, and slate or heritage tile work generally takes longer than standard concrete tile because of how it's fixed, sourced and matched to what's already there. Plasterboard repairs to a ceiling or a few walls, including skimming and drying time before the surface is ready for paint, are usually a few days per room once damaged materials are stripped back to sound substrate and any water source has been fixed first, since replastering over an active leak is a waste of everyone's time and money. A full room refurbishment involving repairs, replastering, tiling and decorating tends to run two to four weeks depending on how much preparation is needed before finishes go on and whether first-fix electrics or plumbing are part of the job and need to be signed off before boarding closes the wall up. Larger refurbishments touching several rooms, or works that involve structural changes, damp treatment or full rewiring, run longer still, often several months, and are usually phased so the property stays partly usable where that's realistic for the household or tenants, with wet trades like plastering and screeding grouped together to avoid dust and mess spreading into finished rooms, and joinery, decorating and second-fix electrics scheduled in afterwards once everything else has dried out properly. Wet trades are the main constraint on speed: plaster typically needs close to a week to dry fully before decoration, and screed can take considerably longer depending on depth, mix and ventilation, so rushing this stage is the most common cause of cracking, blown paint and callbacks later on. Material lead times matter too, since bespoke tile profiles, specific lime products or non-standard rooflight sizes can add weeks if they're not ordered early, and a scaffold licence application through the local council can itself take a couple of weeks to come through before work can even start. Weather affects roofing and scaffold-dependent work more than anything else on the programme, since high wind and heavy rain both stop tile stripping and any work at height, so we build a reasonable contingency into roofing programmes rather than promising a fixed date regardless of forecast. We give a realistic programme at quote stage and flag anything, like poor weather windows for roofing or long lead items, that could reasonably push it back.
Building regulations, party wall matters and getting the paperwork right
A lot of construction and refurbishment work in London touches some form of regulation, and it's worth knowing roughly where you stand before work starts. Structural alterations, most roof replacements, and anything affecting fire safety, insulation levels, drainage or means of escape typically fall under the Building Regulations Approved Documents, covering areas like structure, fire safety, ventilation, damp resistance and thermal performance, and need either full building control sign-off from the local authority or a registered competent-person scheme route, depending on the trade involved. Electrical work connected to a project usually needs to be certified by a suitably qualified and registered electrician under Part P before it's signed off, and this is separate from the building work itself even when it happens on the same site visit and same overall programme. If your property shares a wall, floor or garden boundary with a neighbour and the work is close to or touches that boundary, cutting into a party wall, excavating near foundations, building above the line of an existing party fence wall, the Party Wall etc. Act 1996 may apply, which means formal written notice to neighbours before certain works begin, usually with a set notice period before work can start and the possibility of a party wall surveyor being appointed if a neighbour dissents or simply doesn't respond in time. Listed buildings and properties in conservation areas often need planning consent even for works that would otherwise be permitted development, particularly for roofing materials, windows, render and anything visible from the street, and some conservation areas have Article 4 directions that remove permitted development rights altogether, meaning even a like-for-like repair can technically need consent first before scaffolding goes up. Flats and leasehold properties add another layer again, since a lease often requires the freeholder or managing agent's written consent before internal alterations, flooring changes or plumbing work, regardless of what planning or building control require, and that consent can take weeks to come through if it's not requested early in the process. We flag where we think consent, notice or building control involvement is likely needed for a project and can put together the drawings, specifications or structural information a building control officer or planning department typically asks for, though the responsibility for obtaining planning permission or serving party wall agreements sits with the property owner unless we've specifically agreed otherwise as part of the project scope in writing beforehand.